Friday, July 31, 2009

It looks like my husband's tomato dreams are at long last a reality. Hundreds of tomatoes hang heavy on Phil's verdant vines, filling paths in our front yard, back alley and rooftop garden with leaves and ripening fruit. Green tape supports the thick stems that have outgrown metal cages; some are tied to neighbor's trees, some are secured to doorknobs rendering side doors nonoperational for the duration.

I look at those vines and envision rows of wide-mouthed, pint jars filled with crushed tomatoes. Red, juicy fruit, alluringly sweet yet balanced with herbaceous acidity.

Yes, canning is chic, evidenced by the burgeoning sales of canning jars. A sagging economy has fueled frugality. Those thrifty values along with the trend of eating locally grown produce have contributed to the can-at-home revival.

The result: A desk stacked with new canning books filled with great recipes and helpful tips. Here are two of my favorites:

"Well-Preserved: Recipes and Techniques for Putting Up Small Batches of Seasonal Foods" by Eugenia Bone (Clarkson Potter, $29.95)

This book is a jewel because it offers easy-to-follow, low-tech canning formulas and recipes that use each preserved product.

Bone's commonsense words make canning approachable. Her voice is that of a farmers' market devotee putting up produce at home in a small Manhattan kitchen. She says that even for people with busy lifestyles, canning can become part of a regular routine.

"Canning is significantly easier than remembering your pin code for your computer, or figuring out your Blackberry," she says. "It is the same as cooking; you just have to pay attention. If you are sautéing a piece of meat, you can't go and answer the phone and talk. It is the same with canning.

"If I need a pound of asparagus for dinner, I get three pounds. I use one more burner to put up 2 pounds of pickled asparagus. I can do that while I am hanging around the kitchen cooking dinner. I'm cooking anyway, and canning is just another part of that. I wish more people would realize that you can do this. It can become a lifestyle and no more difficult than anything else you do — like making your bed."

She says that her strategy is to buy and can seasonally, producing just enough to last until the next season. She only cans an amount that her family can eat.

"I want to finish out the year, no more than that," she says. "By the time June 20 shows up, I want to have finished all my Cherries in Wine from the previous year."

And as for economic benefits of canning Mr. Wonderful's tomato crop, she says to look at what I won't be buying in February — expensive vine-ripened out-of-season tomatoes.

"The more expensive the product determines the amount of savings," she says. "If your palate is demanding, the savings are greater, because you won't be looking for flavorful, expensive produce come winter.

"Besides, the tomatoes you can are so much better."

Delicious. I can hardly wait to sample my renditions of her Canned Tomatoes, Pickled Asparagus, and Cherries In Wine. And it will be helpful to have her recipes on hand for dishes that use those pantry treats.

"The Complete Book of Pickling: 250 Recipes, From Pickles and Relishes to Chutneys and Salsas" by Jennifer MacKenzie (Robert Rose, $24.95) is another great resource.

Home economist MacKenzie knows that pickled condiments can add gusto to otherwise humdrum meals. She became enamored with pickles as a child.

"I was lucky because my mom made a lot of pickles," MacKenzie says. "My Aunt Thelma's Bread-and-Butter Pickles are my first memory. I love to eat them, and I love to make them. I love them with grilled cheese sandwiches. But ironically, Thelma isn't my aunt. I found out she was a distant relation by marriage."

Most of her recipes offer big-batch yields. Her "aunt's" recipe yields 5 quart jars of pickles, a formula that uses 8 pounds of pickling cucumbers. But if you prefer, MacKenzie says you can make half a batch, warning that you may run out of pickles before the next cucumber season once everyone gets a taste.

For delectable appetizers, her Blueberry, Tart Apple and Onion Chutney is spooned atop small wedges of Brie cheese placed on bite-size slices of rustic nut bread. Made with fruit, vinegar, sugar and spices, it's a sweet-sour chunky concoction that is has the deep mahogany hue. She says it is also tasty on grilled chicken or sandwiches.

"I like to use it on a smoked turkey or ham sandwich," she says. "It adds a whole lot of life, much more than mustard or mayonnaise.

"And the Peach and Sweet Pepper Chutney is delicious, too. When we get peaches in season, they are so wonderful. I like to spoon this chutney on grilled fish or chicken or use it as a bruschetta topping (on thin, toasted slices of French baguette). It's very versatile."

Oh my, I think I'd better roll up my sleeves and clear some space in my pantry.



Recipe: Canned Tomatoes




Author Eugenia Bone says that Pickled Asparagus is often used as a condiment, but she likes to use a handful as a straight up vegetable. She also serves it as a first-course salad accompanied with hard-cooked eggs. She says that Jersey Giants, the purple-topped asparagus are delicious and meaty, but they will stain the vinegar solution. She says that's okay.


Recipe: Pickled Asparagus


Bone says that Cherries In Wine is delicious in both savory and sweet dishes. "I love having them on hand for unexpected company," she says. "All I have to do is dump 1/2 cup into a wineglass and top with whipped cream for an elegant dessert."

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